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Port Stephens sits about two and a half hours north of Sydney along the New South Wales coast, where a deep natural harbour opens into a bay broad enough to feel almost oceanic. The inlet is one of the largest in the Southern Hemisphere, sheltered by a long peninsula to the north and backed by the Tomaree National Park, whose sandstone headlands rise sharply from the water. It is a place shaped almost entirely by its geography, and visitors tend to arrive already knowing what they are coming for: dolphins, dunes, and the particular quality of light that falls across the bay in the late afternoon.

Nelson Bay is the commercial and social centre of the area, with a marina that serves as the departure point for dolphin-watching cruises and whale-watching trips during the annual migration season. The resident bottlenose dolphin population in the bay is one of the most reliably encountered in Australia, which gives the harbour a character quite different from more conventional seaside towns. Anna Bay, on the ocean side of the peninsula, sits at the edge of the Worimi Conservation Lands, home to the largest moving coastal sand dunes in the Southern Hemisphere. The scale of those dunes, some rising to thirty metres, is genuinely surprising to first-time visitors who arrive expecting a modest beach and find instead a landscape that reads more like a desert meeting the sea.