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Your guide to Thessaloniki

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Few Greek cities carry their history as visibly as Thessaloniki. Founded in 316 BC by the Macedonian king Cassander and named after his wife, a half-sister of Alexander the Great, the city has accumulated layer upon layer of civilisation across more than two millennia. Roman triumphal arches, Byzantine basilicas, Ottoman mosques and hammams, and Sephardic Jewish heritage all coexist within a compact urban fabric that runs along the northern shore of the Thermaic Gulf. That waterfront, the Nea Paralia, is where the city exhales: a long promenade of gardens, sculptures and cafes where Thessalonians of every generation congregate at dusk, with the White Tower standing at its eastern end as the city's most recognisable landmark.

The White Tower itself is a useful orientation point. Built by the Ottomans in the fifteenth century and later used as a prison, it now houses a museum tracing the city's layered past, and its circular terrace offers one of the cleaner views across the gulf toward the Pierian mountains to the south. Behind it, the city climbs toward the Upper Town, the Ano Poli, where Byzantine walls still trace the hillside and the neighbourhood retains a texture of timber-framed houses, small churches and narrow lanes that the lower city largely lost to the 1917 fire. The contrast between the two elevations is one of the more instructive walks a first-time visitor can take.

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